Why City Chicken has no chicken: A new look at a century-old recipe by Cleo Coyle (2024)



Why City Chicken has no chicken: A new look at a century-old recipe by Cleo Coyle (1)


Like "Chicken Fried" Steak, "City Chicken" is a delicious comfort food that makes use of the word chicken in the title but not in the recipe. So exactly what is City Chicken?

Well, if you take a six-inch wooden skewer, load it up with scraps of pork and/or veal, and dip it in flour, egg, and breading, you're on the right track. A good pan gravy should be made during the process, and in the recipe below, I’ll show you how I and my husband (and partner in crime writing) do ours.

There are many variations, based on region. We do ours Pittsburgh style.

But first a bit of fun...

Do you remember the scene below

in the biopic JULIE AND JULIA?

Julia Child is excited to meet the famous cookbook author Irma Rombauer, who wrote Joy of Cooking, and Irma tells Julia about her horrific publishing experience...

Here's an even greater calamity (in my opinion): My 7th edition (1997) JOY OF COOKING did not include the recipe! As noted above, City Chicken was included in earlier versions, and I'm happy to prove it from a photo of the page in my own well-worn copy of the 5th edition (the comb-ring bound version, which is over 40 years old now). If any of you have the 8th edition, you can check for the recipe in your index of "Joy Classics," to see if it's made a reappearance there!

How do "mock drumsticks" taste?

Incredibly good. City Chicken is a delicious way to cook pork.It's a relatively healthy entree, too, because pork is a white meat, and (in our Pittsburgh-style version) it's baked and not deep fried.

Growing up just outside of Pittsburgh, Marc and I ate City Chicken regularly. Marc's mother actually made Wednesdays City Chicken night and served her hearty mock drumsticks with string beans and mashed potatoes—to soak up all that good pan gravy. Now if that's not a down-home comfort-food dinner, I don't know what is.

City Chicken is such a popular dish in the Pittsburgh area that some groceries sell "City Chicken" packs of pork pieces with skewers included. Wikipediahas an entry on City Chicken that actually features a picture of one of these Pittsburgh packs. (See Wiki photo at right.)

Ironically, though I now live in New York, the biggest city in the country, I cannot find "City Chicken" packs. Hey, that's okay. Marc and I don’t need them. And neither do you. Just look for packages of boneless pork and/or veal pieces (usually marked for stew), follow our recipe, and you’re all set to…


Cook with joy!

To download a PDF copy of this recipe that you can print, save, or share, click here.

Why City Chicken has no chicken: A new look at a century-old recipe by Cleo Coyle (2)


Why City Chicken has no chicken: A new look at a century-old recipe by Cleo Coyle (3)
Cleo Coyle, maker of mock
drumsticks,is author of
The Coffeehouse Mysteries

So why do we call it "chicken,"

when no chicken is in it?

Short answer: When you couldn't afford real chicken, City Chicken was an alternative--a way to enjoy mock fried chicken drumsticks using scraps from the butcher.

Where does the "city" part come in?

Although published recipes for "mock chicken," were found as far back as one hundred years ago, City Chicken really took off during the Depression, when fatty trimmings and meat scraps of pork, beef, and veal were less expensive than chicken, especially in urban areas that were far from poultry farms.

And there you have it--the name explained.

As I noted above, there are many regional variations of the dish. Some are deep fried, others have no breading. The recipe we’re sharing today was how Marc's mother prepared it, and therefore made "Pittsburgh style," which means it will be breaded, sautéed, and baked. We just love it this way, and hope you will, too...


Makes six servings

Why City Chicken has no chicken: A new look at a century-old recipe by Cleo Coyle (4)

INGREDIENTS:

- 6 six-inch wooden skewers(in a pinch, simply cut down longer skewers)

- 3 pounds of meat cubes (we use):
1-½ pounds boneless pork pieces (or "stew meat") +
1-½ pounds veal pieces (or "stew meat")

- 1 cup all-purpose flour


- 1 cup seasoned bread crumbs (we use Italian seasoned)

- 2 large eggs (beaten with fork)


- 1 tablespoon milk (or water) to thin the beaten eggs, making an "egg wash" for breading

- 1 medium white or yellow onion,chopped

- ¼ cup vegetable oil

- 2 Tablespoons butter

- 2/3 cup chicken or veg stock

- Salt and pepper to taste

- 1 tablespoon (or so) Wondra flour or cornstarch

DIRECTIONS:

Note:If you bought "stew meat" packages as shown above, you should be ready to go. If you can't find stew meat, purchase pork loin chops and/or veal steaks and cut them into small pieces ( about 1- to 1-1/2 inches in size).

Step 1: Prepare the Meat - Arrange the meat pieces on each of the six skewers. If using more than one type, alternate them (pork, veal, pork, veal, etc...) Fit the pieces together tightly to create a mock chicken drumstick. Dredge each of the mock drumsticks in flour, then in egg wash (2 eggs beaten with 1 T. milk or water), and finally coat generously with the seasoned bread crumbs.

Why City Chicken has no chicken: A new look at a century-old recipe by Cleo Coyle (5)

Why City Chicken has no chicken: A new look at a century-old recipe by Cleo Coyle (6)

Step 2: Brown the meat – Preheat oven to 325 degrees Fahrenheit. While oven is heating, place the vegetable oil in a large oven-proof skillet over medium high heat. When this shallow oil is hot enough to ripple, add 1 tablespoon of butter and allow it to melt. Sauté the mock drumsticks about five minutes in the hot oil, turning often, until the outsides are golden brown. Remove the mock drumsticks from the pan and set them aside on a holding plate. Turn the heat to low.

Step 3: Sauté the onions– Add the chopped onion to the hot oil, along with about 1 tablespoon butter. Cook and stir over the low heat until the onions are brown, about five minutes. Now return the mock drumsticks to the pan (along with any drippings that may have accumulated on the holding plate). Cook them only for another minute or two.

Why City Chicken has no chicken: A new look at a century-old recipe by Cleo Coyle (7)


Step 4: Bake in the oven – Add ½ cup chicken or vegetable stock to the skillet, cover with a lid, and bake in the preheated oven for about 50 minutes, or until the meat is tender.


Why City Chicken has no chicken: A new look at a century-old recipe by Cleo Coyle (8)

Step 5: Make the gravy -The onions and stock create a nice gravy as the meat cooks. While you can spoon this thin gravy over the mock drumsticks as is, we prefer to thicken it. To do this, you'll need to remove all of the mock drumsticks from the pan while leaving the liquid in there...

Why City Chicken has no chicken: A new look at a century-old recipe by Cleo Coyle (9)


Why City Chicken has no chicken: A new look at a century-old recipe by Cleo Coyle (10)


Over low heat, whisk the Wondra flour (or cornstarch) into the liquid.If you like, you can stir a bit of butter into the gravy for richness, as well, although it's not a necessity. Simmer for a minute or two, whisking in more flour or cornstarch until the gravy thickens to your liking. Then plate the mock drumsticks, spoon the gravy over them, as shown, and...

Why City Chicken has no chicken: A new look at a century-old recipe by Cleo Coyle (11)



Eat with joy!

~ Cleo Coyle

New York Times bestselling author of

The Coffeehouse Mysteries

Why City Chicken has no chicken: A new look at a century-old recipe by Cleo Coyle (12)

Yes, this is me, Cleo (aka Alice).

Friend me on facebookhere.

Follow me on twitterhere.

Visit my online coffeehousehere.

Why City Chicken has no chicken: A new look at a century-old recipe by Cleo Coyle (13)

The Coffeehouse Mysteriesare bestselling
works of amateur sleuth fiction set in a landmark
Greenwich Village coffeehouse, and each of the
12 titles includes the added bonus of recipes. 

To learn more,click here. 

 

Why City Chicken has no chicken: A new look at a century-old recipe by Cleo Coyle (14)


The Ghost and
Mrs. McClure


Book #1 of

The Haunted Bookshop
Mysteries
, which Cleo writes
under the name
Alice Kimberly

To learn more,click here.



Why City Chicken has no chicken: A new look at a century-old recipe by Cleo Coyle (2024)

FAQs

Why is city chicken not chicken? ›

It's never chicken. It's usually pork, sometimes veal, sometimes both, but never chicken. The second crazy fact—one that will blow the mind of anyone who has been to the butcher or supermarket in the last thirty years—is that City Chicken came to be because pork and veal were once much cheaper than chicken.

Why was city chicken invented? ›

The reason city chicken came to be goes back to the early 1900s when cuts of pork and veal were far more affordable to city workers in meat-packing hubs like Cincinnati, Cleveland, Pittsburgh and Louisville than chickens, which were largely found in the country.

What is Polish city chicken made of? ›

Traditionally, city chicken consists of cubes of pork, veal, or both, which are threaded onto skewers, battered with flour and breadcrumbs, and baked or deep-fried to tender perfection. Cooks often shape the skewered meat to mimic chicken drumsticks, and the dish indeed tastes like chicken.

What cut of pork is city chicken made from? ›

ingredients
  1. 1 lb veal tenderloin, cut into 1-1/2 inch cubes.
  2. 1 lb pork tenderloin, cut into 1-1/2 inch cubes.
  3. 1 egg, beaten.
  4. 14 cup milk.
  5. 12 teaspoon salt.
  6. 14 teaspoon pepper.
  7. 1 cup saltine, medium crushed.
  8. 3 tablespoons oil.

What kind of meat is city chicken made of? ›

City chicken is a skewer of pork cubes that are breaded, deep-fried, and then baked to resemble fried chicken. I like to use all pork, but the tradition is to use pork and veal combined.

Why is there no chicken? ›

Labor shortages, lack of truck drivers, and shortages of packaging materials like plastic, paper, and aluminum are all contributing to the slowdowns. Farmers are struggling to keep their herds in response to a shortage of antibiotics and feed materials.

Why is it called City Chicken if it's pork? ›

In the tenement and row houses in Binghamton/JC of that era it was rare to have enough land to raise chickens however slaughter houses (pork, lamb, veal, and beef) could still be located 'in town'. The idea of breading veal or pork like fried chicken became a cheaper and popular meal.

Why do they call City Chicken chicken? ›

“It was called 'chicken' because chicken was once more expensive and more desirable; families would have a chicken for Sunday dinner,” says Barbara Johnstone, a professor of rhetoric and linguistics at Carnegie Mellon University and author of the book Speaking Pittsburghese.

What was the first country to eat chicken? ›

Genomic studies estimate that the chicken was domesticated 8,000 years ago in Southeast Asia and spread to China and India 2,000 to 3,000 years later. Archaeological evidence supports domestic chickens in Southeast Asia well before 6000 BC, China by 6000 BC and India by 2000 BC.

What is mock chicken? ›

noun. : meat other than chicken (as veal) cooked or shaped to resemble chicken.

Can you eat chicken in Poland? ›

Polish cuisine is rich in meat, especially pork, chicken and game, in addition to a wide range of vegetables, spices, fungi and mushrooms, and herbs. It is also characterised by its use of various kinds of pasta, cereals, kasha and pulses.

Do Polish chickens lay eggs? ›

Polish hens lay around 150 to 200 medium or large white eggs per year. They start laying eggs late in the season but are persistent once they start. They rarely brood and don't sit on their eggs until they hatch.

What part of pork chops is the pig? ›

Cooking Pork Chops

Pork chops are the most popular cut of pork. They come from the loin which is the meat that runs from the pig's hip to its shoulder. While there are a variety of names for pork chops like loin, rib, sirloin, top loin, and blade chops, it's important to remember that they all cook the same.

What part of pig is shredded pork? ›

Pork shoulder is ideal for pulling purposes. It has an optimum fat content that yields to create tender, melty meat, but it's essential you cook it slowly to allow the protein to break down properly.

Why is it shredded chicken but pulled pork? ›

I think the real separation behind pulling and shredding is that the meat is so tender with pulled pork that you can just pull it apart, as opposed to chicken being a little more stuck together, so you have to shred it a bit with the help of a fork or something.

Why doesn't chicken have a meat name? ›

The peasants who grew the food called the animals cows and pigs. Chickens and other fowl were peasant food so the Nobles did not generally discuss them. Thus the peasants used the same names for the animal and its meat.

Is rooster meat still called chicken? ›

Most male chickens are killed after hatching, with some reserved for maintaining the breading stock. Males that are kept, but are castrated are called capons. Roosters would mostly be used on a residential farm. And that meat would simply be called Chicken, but would tast much stronger than hen meat.

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